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Everyone talks about athleisure
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While the triumph of athleisure is one of the hottest themes to discuss, analyze, and wear, it is rather important to go back to the roots, and see, on what junction the trend came into sight snd penetrated the world of today’s fashion. We decided to share an exclusive article by Kristina Galants written for Ukrainian magazine Natali, that portrays the millennial evolution of fashion and explains the athleisure concept and its affect on real fashion based on FOXYLAB NY case. Enjoy your read!
WHERE FASHION IS GOING
THE CONVERSATIONS ABOUT THE INEVITABLE COLLAPSE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY STARTED IN 2008 AT THE SAME TIME WITH THE WAVE OF THE ECONOMIC CRISIS. HOWEVER, FASHION’S CURVE OF DESTINY BEGAN TO TEST THE INDUSTRY LONG BEFORE THE ECONOMY FALL.
Over the past twelve years, to improve sales, stores motivated customers by discounts, while buyers have convinced designers to create something called “novelty”. For example, that annoying embroidery that is used to decorate sweaters for large department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue. But the global pandemic once again reminded of the vulnerability of the fashion world. It all started a little over a decade ago with the off-season Pre-fall and Resort collections, which sold well in between deliveries to boutiques of the main collections. Gradually, this led to an almost total disappearance of seasons and overproduction. At the same time, the exclusive world of fashion became more accessible, thanks to each blogger «report» in insta-stories and their live broadcasts from the fashion shows. Fashion obtained so many internal rules, that externally it started looking chaotic.
A prime example of a designer who has adapted to the new rules is Scott Steinberg. In 2015, his namesake published a book «Make Change Work for You», which can be used to describe all of Sternberg, the designer, activities since the changes that led to the closure of his first brand, Band of Outsiders. After observing the fashion industry a little from the outside, Steinberg refused to go with it in the same rhythm and founded the Entireworld — without seasons, shows or sales in department stores. True to the brand’s slogan «The stuff you live in», Entireworld produces things for a comfortable everyday life: monochrome tracksuits, pullovers, socks. For many young designers aspiring to be the next Alexander McQueen, Steinberg’s story could serve as a lesson: to produce what sells.
But it seems to be, that many modern designers are in no rush to show their collections at fashion weeks and sign contracts with Saks. They are quite happy with the sales on Instagram, which are otherwise called DTC (direct to consumer). This begs the question: where is the real fashion in it? If anyone can now launch an athleisure line, sell it on social media and claim to be a designer. This is where the battle for the most interesting concept arises. The idea behind the sale of basic things is important: take, for example, a tracksuit from recycled bottles and scribble on it about its uniqueness with a thin black handwriting. So it will immediately acquire a new value: this is not just a suit, but a suit that helps the environment. And bloggers would love to show how to wear it. There are many examples, and does this mean that they destroy the authenticity of fashion, or, on the contrary, save it? This is the opinion of Oxana De Castro, the founder of the FOXYLAB NEW YORK, a creative laboratory in New York City, whose concept is based on a merge of art and street fashion. To create each capsule collection, the artists, selected by Oxana, create a design for the basic items — all that we wear in the work from home era: hoodies, T-shirts, pullovers. In terms of special production, the artists paint directly on clothes, like on canvas, thus “transforming to life” their creations. FOXYLAB NY doesn’t have shows, seasons and sales in department stores, but also no gender division — complete freedom. Having fully understood the needs of the modern consumer, Oxana puts everything she needs into her brand: an art concept, intriguing collaborations with renowned artists, high quality and comfort. And here’s when the words of everyone’s favorite film character from “The Devil Wears Prada” Nigel (Stanley Tucci) come to mind: “And their works, their creations are more than art. Because you live in them…”. The movie was about Holsten and De La Renta, but nowadays the skill of the designer is judged by his ability to create based on the needs of the customer.
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