Interview with Fabscrap: community of changemakers

Interview with Fabscrap: community of changemakers

SHARE THE ARTICLE

Thank you very much for taking time to chat with us! Foxylab New York is passionate about sustainable practices and innovative initiatives that help the fashion industry to lessen the harm on the environment. We think the mission of Fabscrap is more than relevant to current dynamics in fashion, such as overproduction and production waste. Could you walk us through evey step of your process? Why is each step important?

FABSCRAP is a textile recycling non-profit working to end commercial textile waste. We work with designers and brands in the fashion, interiors, and entertainment industries to take their textile waste and keep it out of landfill. Brands can sign up with our recycling service to have their textile waste picked up. We currently offer service in New York City and the Philadelphia region. All the material collected (about 6,000lbs per week) must be sorted. We rely on our large community of volunteers to help us sort through all the material we bring in. FABSCRAP hosts two daily volunteer sessions at both locations to help us get through all of that material. About 60% of material we collect is reusable and is made available to our community through a thrift store model- we have stores in Brooklyn, Philadelphia, and online. Brands, students, young designers and home sewers can use FABSCRAP materials instead of purchasing new. The other 40% that isn’t readily reusable is downcycled into a material called shoddy- used for various forms of insulation.

How much materials do you collect over a course of a year? What was the biggest amount of textiles you ever collected at one time?

We collected 303,711 lbs of material in 2021 and have collected 974,624.00 lbs in total in the 5 years FABSCRAP has been operating.

What was the affect of Covid on Fabscrap?

Like all small businesses, COVID has definitely had a large effect on FABSCRAP in the last 2 years. We had to close all operations from March-July 2020 and because a lot of our business is public facing with volunteers and shoppers, our reopening that July saw a lot of changes to how we operate daily and how many people we could welcome into our space safely. A slow down both in service pickups of materials and shoppers/volunteers in 2020 affected our revenue and that is still being felt, even as some of our daily operations return to a new normal.

Are there any new initiatives / events in the planning?

FABSCRAP is excited about our recent expansion to Philadelphia, we are planning on getting more involved with our new community of designers and fiber artists, as well as branching out into Baltimore, D.C. and New Jersey’s textile communities. Both our New York and Philadelphia locations host events that educate our community about textile waste and teach creative reuse skills. We hope to be able to host pop-up events again this year to connect with communities outside our two locations and make our saved from landfill materials accessible to as many people as we can reach.

On Fabscrap's website we learned that you have featured fashion designers. Do they design and produce all the clothing that is sold in Fabscrap's stores? Or do you have a permanent designers team?

Every 3 months, FABSCRAP highlights an artist or designer who utilizes textile waste in their work, and who serves as an example within their community of not only sourcing more sustainably, but also how to manipulate textile waste into something new and beautiful using their specific talent and skill set. With our Philadelphia expansion, we now highlight two local designers each season, one from NYC and one from Philly. FABSCRAP sells their work in-store at our warehouses and online. We have featured a few fashion designers but many have been textile artists or crafters. We are currently featuring Grant Blvd in Philadelphia, a Black woman-owned sustainable fashion brand, and Karyn Lao in Brooklyn, who creates adorable pom-poms and jewelry. We do not produce clothing at FABSCRAP but work with a vast array of small businesses, brands and designers who source FABSCRAP fabric for their designs and products.

Even that the clothing you produce is made from collected textiles and scraps, it is still designed to satisfy the common demand of the customer? What defines the style of Fabscrap's clothing? What are some major style inspirations? How do you pick the theme forr each collection?

FABSCRAP does not produce clothing, instead we make the usable materials we collect to a community of designers, students, and home sewers for use in their work and clothing. There are definitely unique challenges to creating using saved from landfill/recycled materials but we have seen it inspire such creativity! Designers really have to let the fabrics available to them inspire their work instead of sourcing exact colors and patterns to match a planned vision. We also sell “Menables” in our Brooklyn and Philadelphia Reuse Rooms. These are essentially sample garments that have never been worn but need some sewing and creativity. Many are missing buttons, zippers, have cut seams or a fabric swatch cut from them but we have seen amazing results from reworking these pieces.

What is Fabscrap's 5-year goal?

To expand to more cities and be known and trusted as a textile recycling and reuse materials resource on a large scale. We hope to have a west coast presence in the near future and want to be an accessible resource to as many companies and individuals as we can. In this expansion and growth we will continue our education goals as well, using the data we collect and insight we have from our operations to teach the industry and individuals about the textile waste problem and solutions to fix it

What do you think are the most efficient ways of turning the consumer's attention towards fashion waste problem? Are you witnessing shifts in the mindset of the customer?

We think seeing the issue first hand really hits home with most people and makes such a large, wide ranging issue come to life. At both FABSCRAP warehouses we have what we call “The Pile” which is our massive collection of black garbage bags filled with unsorted textile waste. Customers and volunteers are always shocked when they can see how much waste is produced from the fashion industry and what we have at FABSCRAP is only a percentage of the total waste created across the country and worldwide. Customers are also shocked by the sheer amount of beautiful fabric we have in our Reuse Rooms and can’t believe that it was once considered waste and would all have gone to the landfill. Volunteering helps the public understand the tedious process involved with sorting out fabric for recycling and the education around different fibers and which fabrics can and cannot be recycled, such as anything containing spandex. There has definitely been a shift in increased awareness from consumers who want to know what happens to their clothing and where/how their products were made- we hope to offer additional insight into a part of the problem they may never see otherwise.

We assume, the artists and designers are among your most frequent customers. What other categories of customers do you work with? Why do they shop for fabrics?

We do have many artists and designers shop with us! We have noticed that during quarantine many people began sewing and learning new crafts, and we have been welcoming many new home sewers and jewelry designers. Costume designers shop our fabrics, shoe makers and handbag designers love our leathers, weavers use our yarn, and kids like our small fabric scraps for arts and crafts projects- there is such a variety of customers! For service, we pick up textile waste from large and small designer brands, media and theater production companies, upholstery businesses and architecture firms so the materials we have available are varied as well. There are so many different ways to use textiles and love seeing what gets made with our materials- we use #MadeWithFAB on Instagram as a way to display all the work our community is making.

What are the major benefits of shopping for textiles at Fabscrap vs. any other shop?

All FABSCRAP fabric, leathers, trim and yarn is saved from the landfill and is similar to shopping secondhand for clothing- you lower the demand for new production of materials which is often very labor and resource intensive and keep these fabrics (in great condition!) from ending up thrown out or destroyed. Every 10 pounds of fabric bought from FABSCRAP has the same CO2-reducing benefits as planting a tree. Our Reuse Rooms are ever changing in what we have in-stock and there is always something new!

Could you walk us through the clothing price point of view? Even that you provide excellent quality, your items still have a price of a thift store. What motivated you to adopt such policy?

We want our materials to be as accessible as possible. We hope that more and more designers begin using sustainable fabrics and second-hand materials in their fashions. We do not want the price-point to stop our customers from buying reused and want to motivate creativity. We also strive to give away as much fabric as we sell-each location has a free fabric shopping section, volunteers can take fabric for free after sessions, and we partner with schools and other nonprofits who need fabric for their programs. The fewer barriers to accessing sustainable resources the better!

Last but not least, what motivates the Fabscrap team to move forward? What advice could you give to the fashion industry workers?

We are motivated by the never-ending amount of fabric we receive and knowing we are the only non-profit working to end commercial textile waste. It is exciting to see how many people want to get involved with us, from service contacts to volunteering. We all are consumers of the fashion industry. Our advice to fashion industry workers is to think about the end life of the materials and fabrics you are producing and using- FABSCRAP is available as a resource and we want to work with the industry to end textile waste.

COMMENT

There are no reviews yet. Be the first one to write one.

Actually, this article could
be in your email

Featured materials from FOXYLAB MAGAZINE
are available in our newsletters.
Subscribe and get a dose of inspiration!

more articles

A whole world on the tip of a pencil. The story of an artist who proved that true art has no limits and that it is never too late to start all over again.

OVERSIZED BLACK TEE
WHITE TEE

AWAKEN

$110

READ MORE ARTICLES

International fashion icon and symbol of Parisian style, Ines de la Fressange is one of the most famous women in France.

Anastasia Pilepchuk is a Berlin-based artist with Buryat roots. She creates masks and face jewellery inspired by the nature and the culture of her beautiful region.

A whole world on the tip of a pencil. The story of an artist who proved that true art has no limits and that it is never too late to start all over again.

Search

FOLLOW US ON