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Haute Couture is translated from French as ‘high fashion’, it’s exclusively French label and can not exist anywhere else.
Another newcomer of this week became the Beirut based luxury house Ashi Studio. In keeping with the designer’s Mohammed Ashi flair for drama, the winter collection was unveiled onstage at the iconic Théatre du Chatelet. Despite the morning hour [10 a.m.] the show which opened the last day of the four-days couture mini-race, gathered, as French say “crème de la crème” [best of the best] of the fashion industry, both of influencer and media sides. Inspired by the powerful novel “Perfume” of Patrick Suskind, it came as a fresh scent with the couturier’s approach dressing as “undressing”. Undeniably, in his Parisian debut Ashi, who employed the of best of the French craftsmen, has managed to extract the essence of couture.
When it comes to Schiaparelli, the art and performance naturally prevail. The show in fact stars before the show, outside the Petit Palais, the usual venue, with all star-guests, this time headed by Cardi B who has arrived in the signature surrealistic black and gold outfits and climed the stairs under the photographers and looks-loos shouts.
Once the models come out the magic begins and you barely believe that the things you’re seeing are the work of human hands.
“I wanted this season to feel much more free, spontaneous, painterly,” said Daniel Roseberry backstage. “The idea of the collection was really to suck the air out of the room. It’s what happened. I think the idea was to try to keep focus on the collection and go deeper into the techniques we wanted to show”, adds the designer.
Roseberry continues to experiment with craftspeople to blur the boundaries between clothing, embroidery, jewellery and textile. To make at as arty as possible.
Lucian Freud’s chaotic painting inspirations resulted in a multicoloured ‘nude’ dress, made up of an irregular mosaic of paillettes sewn onto chiffon.
While the vivid blue that turned up, scrolled into a skating skirt, and continuing into spray-painted body-paint and landing elsewhere in coils of painted wooden jewellery.
The ultimate bliss of haute couture is to make us believe in what we see is real, when and where it is not.
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