Thom Browne shown his first couture collection in the French capital, and it couldn’t have been more dramatic. He seated the guests of the show… on the stage of the Paris Garnier Opera. While the red and golden auditorium was entirely populated by black and white cut-out illustrations of the personages who looked much similar to the designer.
“It’s really special – the idea of taking almost American sportswear and bringing it into a couture setting,” said Thom. The catwalk turned into a real theatre piece, where the main character was sitting at the station, thinking about her life and not being happy when out of a sudden she sees all of her fantasies walk in.
Another newcomer of this week became the Beirut-based luxury house
Ashi Studio. In keeping with the designer’s Mohammed Ashi flair for drama, the winter collection was unveiled onstage at the iconic Théatre du Chatelet. Despite the morning hour [10 a.m.], the show, which opened the last day of the four-day couture mini-race, gathered, as the French say, “crème de la crème” [best of the best] of the fashion industry, both on the influencer and media sides. Inspired by the powerful novel “Perfume” by Patrick Suskind, it came as a fresh scent with the couturier’s approach to dressing as “undressing.” Undeniably, in his Parisian debut, Ashi, who employed the best of the French craftsmen, has managed to extract the essence of couture.
When it comes to Schiaparelli, the art and performance naturally prevail. The show, in fact, starts before the show—outside the Petit Palais, the usual venue—with all-star guests, this time headed by Cardi B, who arrived in the signature surrealistic black and gold outfit and climbed the stairs under the photographers’ and onlookers’ shouts.
Once the models come out the magic begins and you barely believe that the things you’re seeing are the work of human hands.
“I wanted this season to feel much more free, spontaneous, painterly,” said Daniel Roseberry backstage. “The idea of the collection was really to suck the air out of the room. It’s what happened. I think the idea was to try to keep focus on the collection and go deeper into the techniques we wanted to show”, adds the designer.
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