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The best of Milan men’s fashion week AW 23/24.
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The first fashion week of the new year, and it’s men’s fashion week, which has given us many pleasant surprises, from a new chapter of Gucci to crazy style at JW Anderson catwalk. Today we highlight the best of Milan Men’s Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2023/2024.
Gucci
Fashion house Gucci showed its first collection without Alessandro Michele. It wasn’t created by a new creative director, but by the brand’s team who worked with Alessandro.
The first impression of the collection is that the fashion house is heading in the direction of minimalism and ‘normality’.
We were treated to a basic Gucci with a throwback to timeless values: classic coats, wide-leg trousers, jackets and fur loafers, bags of all kinds.
Of the trends, three are the most striking: grunge elements in ripped T-shirts and sweaters with holes, moto style; balletcore with its leg warmers and leggings, which have already made their way into men’s wardrobes.
The androgynous fashion of the Alessandro Michele era continues: men in skirts are still present in the new collection.
Change is hard to get used to. We will wait with interest for the new collection to decide whether we like Gucci’s new direction.
Dsquared2
For those who miss the Gucci of Michele’s time, check out Dsquared2.
The collection showcases the various codes that Dsquared2 has been known for over the past two decades, such as denim in all its forms, maxi jumpers, jackets and plaid shirts, as well as western aesthetics and flecks of leather moto styles. It confirms the brand’s penchant for layering, mixing styles and personal expression, with a mix of characters, styles and references.
The most memorable detail of the show was the baby bodysuit on which the designers specify the sex of the “child” just in case. It’s a good idea, because nowadays it’s hard to tell who’s who on the catwalk, like in a nursery.
Dolce & Gabbana
This season Dolce & Gabbana is staking on black color. “We’ve envisioned this collection as if it were a photo in black and white: timeless, eternal, without any chromatic vehemence which would’ve made it current, temporary, alla moda.” – said Domenico.
The collection came out very beautiful: a lot of corsets, fitted jackets, transparent blouses, gloves. Interesting detail in the new collection – shoes with tags. Follow this Dolce&Gabbana advice and you will be the most fashionable.
JW Anderson
Jonathan Anderson presented a mixed show of men’s AW23 and women’s PRE-FALL23 and once again made it clear his clothes are more about art.
People have not yet come to their senses from the clutch-pigeon, and there are already frogs – in the form of a clutch, on slippers, on rubber boots. And can you guess why it was frogs that caught Jonathan Anderson’s attention for his fashion experiments? We found the answer for you! It turns out that many frogs have a surprising property. As adults, their males can change sex and turn into females. So you can figure out for yourself what Jonathan was trying to say with it.
The models opened the show with a roll of fabric in their hands, as if they offered us to sew something on our own, in the manner of a construction set “build it yourself”. Also on the catwalk were seen models with pillows. JW Anderson reminds us how important sleep is for metropolitan residents.
In this collection there is a good job of working with shapes and textures, very interesting sheepskin coats, different colored pairs of boots, a lot of bright colors, in general, the nicely predictable JW Anderson.
Prada
“The devil is in the details” is what I would like to say about Prada menswear Fall23 collection. At first glance it is very simple and laconic, but how thoughtful in detail.
The most memorable accessory of the collection was the bag, which looks like a giant flask.
Also continues the trend of minimalistic bags around the neck instead of jewelry. Prada suggests wearing them under the jacket.
A striking detail of this collection is a pointed collar, which we see on everything from jackets to cardigans. Separately, we want to note the bold idea of making a blown t-shirt. Bombers are definitely firmly established in the fall men’s closet, they are in almost all brands.
We see that Prada has big plans for the Asian market. The main headliners of the show were the members of the South Korean boyband Enhypen. Thanks to them, Instagram exploded with mentions of Prada.
Fendi
Fendi’s new collection is the epitome of intelligent fashion. Minimal logoism, calm monochrome shades, coats with fringe, asymmetrical tops and shirts, elegant ponchos and capes.
Amidst all this elegance, an umbrella bag stands out, presented in a most playful way. The iconic Fendi Baguette bag is now literally shaped like a loaf of French baguette.
JORDANLUCA
This season, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto leave us with the choice of which reality we would prefer, a sort of allegory of the red and blue pill. The design duo have created playful and pessimistic vision.
The FW23 collection, reinterpreting wardrobe basics with irony: an oversized suit, a horizontal fly on trousers, jeans that look like they’ve been stained with fear.
MSGM
MSGM’s “Dreamers University” show is an ode to the university aesthetic. The brand was inspired by director Peter Weir’s cult film Dead Poets Society. We see models on the catwalk wearing college uniforms inspired by American preppy style with patches, ties, knit jumpers with Oxford flannel shirts, coats and jackets.
Martin Rose
Martin Rose showed its autumn collection at Pitti Uomo 2023 the most renowned men’s fashion fair in the world in Florence.
In her new collection she mixed her distinctly London style with Florentine panache. Key pieces included: sports shirts with a formal skirt and a classic suit, a jumper over a jacket, western fringed coat. The bags were designed in the form of gift bags. Notice how Rose has worked on the silhouette: the shoulders are raised and the clothes seem too small – the coat and jeans are definitely tight around the waist. We love it!14:57
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