IS FASHION AND ART ENTERING THE ERA OF MATRIARCHY?

IS FASHION AND ART ENTERING THE ERA OF MATRIARCHY?

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Are we, after centuries of patriarchy, slowly but surely entering the matriarchal era?The fashion, as a form of art, and art in general is a visible precursor of this evolution.

The women’s empowerment was exceptional in the 80s, when wide shoulders and statement suits became fashionable as ladies started to do business on par with men. The time of housewives was over, girls proved to be apt to choose their life style, profession and a man for eventual marriage.



At dawn of the second decade of the XXI century this empowerment has become almost ordinary: women of all religions, languages, social & cultural backgrounds show themselves as smart and skilful leaders in diverse entrepreneurships. Their diversity and inclusivity become thier strengths, while the sense of sisterhood is omnipresnt.

In 2016 first time ever a woman became an artistic director of the legendary Christian Dior fashion house. Such appointment which was impossible before appeared as a turning point in the history of fashion and women empowerment.

Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, who used to head Valentin house in duo with Pierpaolo Piccioli, has ultra feminist vision. Her collections at Dior are always inspired by one of the female contemporary artists. They give Dior’s clients a sense of self-confidence: still feminine clothes signed Chiuri, somehow protects its wearer, like a sort of body armour or even the bullet-proof vest. Modern super heroines would need such kind of garments, and Maria Grazia is here for them.

Strong and power, sculpturally beautiful, with prominent shoulders and endless bare legs Rousteing’s heroine doesn’t really need a man to save her life as she is perfectly capable to stand up not only for herself but for him as well. “Our finest arm can also be in our self-attitude”, – seems to tell us Olivier.

In the meantime Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli plays the surrealistic card. His super heroines rule the world of our imagination and dreams. His super power is in the absence of limits.

The sense of humour accompanies the neo-surrealist designers’ collections – another efficient weapon against the conventions imposed on women by the society where men dominate.

Created in partnership with the French leather artisan Robert Mercier (who collaborates with Balmain and Jean Paul Gaultier as well) cuirass dresses and bustiers, made of leather, sculpt and protect. Desirable and unattainable at the same time.

The late designer, Thierry Mugler undoubtedly marked the 80s and 90s in the International fashion arena by the eccentricity of the looks he proposed. Most of them too theatrical or futuristic, with the wasp waist and almost inhuman proportions. Mugler cloth was not made for ‘mere mortals’: it would rather suit the super heroines the couturier was dreaming of. They were best represented by the top models of the 90s – strong and power super women. Another precursor of the future matriarchy?

No wonder that some contemporary artists draw inspiration from this new visionary movement, translating women’s empowerment in their own way.

That’s the case, for example, of Lucien Murat. Young French painter in his works represents a figurative woman, or better say “superwoman”. Murat accentuates her purposely exaggerated features to show a comic and stereotypical side which the modern society has on… man.

And the place of men in all this?

Well, probably, it’s time to tone down, step back and enable their female part to take it over.

Because we all are nothing but duality.

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