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If you ask me to name the weirdest Paris Fashion Week ever in my lifetime, without a hesitation I would say this one, spring-summer 2023.
In the general climate of the nuclear world war threat which is tangible, the collapse of financial markets which is around the corner and the retrograde Mercury which has become permanent, the fashion mirrors our “historic time span” with the lag which tends to zero: we see on runways what most of us feel daily.
It’s scary, dirty, futile, dark and pessimist. But it’s also revolutionary as after the end, the survivors will create a new world, from the ashes of those who are still wearing Elie Saab and Chanel on the red carpets events driven by old patriarchy minority.
Never in the fashion history, the fashion has been reflecting the time so sharply!
The stalker of this new fashion order, Demna Gvasalia carries on his post-apocalyptic mood in the Balenciaga show. A companion piece of last season as he called it backstage was opened by Kanye West, another joker of this Parisian week. When snow melts it turns to mud, and there were literally tons of mud on the runway.
We all get the idea of Demna: luxury today should not mean polished or looking richly dressed. The storytelling is way more important. Still, one can inquire how long the clients of this old French couture House will stay excited by jeans, trainers and hoodies at a price of much more elaborated outfits they used to get before 2015 (year when Gvasalia became a creative director).
There were also a couple of premiers this season. Irina Shayk fulfilled her long-held dream and walked at Chanel show. The daughter of Bjork, Isadora Barney who featured the latest jewellery campaign of the brand, walked for Miu Miu.
Victoria Beckham presented her first collection in Paris.
It were the designers of Coperni, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Valiant who created the most viral content of the week.
The final look of the collection was literally created on Bella Hadid. A friend of Meyer, Dr. Manel Torres came out with a colleague and sprayed the near-naked top model with a white substance which in few minutes became matte turning into a perfectly fitted dress. The whole process recalled the unforgettable Spring 1999 Alexander McQueen show where robots spray-painted Shalom Harlow’s white dress.
In terms of trend, the hottest detail of the upcoming season would undoubtedly be the… BELT! We find it almost everywhere, even in the most unexpected places.
Dark, cynic, redundant and repetitive, fashion has meanwhile an alternative for those of us who prefer escape the gloomy reality into the world of colours and romanticism.
At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson whose recent collections were marked by the surrealism offered a twisted vision of femme fleurs, sensual but provocative. The designer continues to explore the shapes, new materials and pushing the limits of our imagination.
Another designer who walks the sunny side of the road is Rick Owens. His fashion house is living a real post-Covid renaissance as the lockdown seems to boost the designer’s creative energy. Latest show, traditionally held on the plaza in front of Palais de Tokyo, which is also the hottest spot for the fashionistas and street style photographers, surprised us with a number of lollypop colours, remarkable materials, suppleness, transparency and lightness.
Thus, the fashion, just as life, always leaves us a right to choose which reality we want to create. No matter how crazy the world is becoming, its always a room for magic and love.
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