ROBERT MERCIER,

LEATHER HAUTE COUTURE CRAFTSMEN, WHY MACHINES WILL NOT REPLACE HUMAN GESTURES

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Robert Mercier is a French leather artist who’s gained a lot of attention for his amazing craftsmanship. He’s worked with big-name brands like Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, and Balmain, and his designs have made their way onto the red carpet, worn by stars like Zendaya, Beyoncé, and Kim Kardashian. In 2024, he had a standout moment when his leather creations were featured in the Maison Margiela Artisanal show. For that show, he made leather pieces that looked almost like porcelain. It was a pretty unique take on leatherwork.
Robert Mercier is an artist whose works are world famous and highly instagrammed but who prefers to remain in the shadow of big Fashion Houses. Robert Mercier, as modest as he can be, has been collaborating with Oliver Rousteing since a long while. But also with Jean-Paul Gaultier, Daniel Roseberry from Schiaparelli and J.W. Anderson from Loewe if to mention more of his illustrious clients.
Robert has a huge talent, but its years and years of experience and passionate devotion to his work, finding itself on the borderline between craftsmanship and art, which made him so irreplaceable in the glamour world of haute couture. We had a privilege to meet this rare bird in his Atelier nearby Paris and talk about his work, his vision of high fashion in the actual state of evolution, the difference between craft-men and artist and his future plans. Robert also showed us his creations and told the story of the legendary “Zendaya dress”, the one which definitely triggered his career.
Robert played a pivotal role in the Paris 2024 Olympic Games by collaborating with designer Jeanne Friot to create the striking Joan of Arc costume for the opening ceremony. This ensemble, which captivated audiences worldwide, melded the imagery of Joan of Arc with Sequana, the goddess of the Seine, symbolizing Paris itself. Mercier’s expertise in leather craftsmanship was instrumental in developing armor that appeared metallic but was, in reality, sculpted from leather. This approach ensured both visual impact and practicality for the performer.
With Robert Mercier we met a bit more than a year ago at the occasion of his first personal exhibition in Paris within the fashion week. Robert is an artisan of arts specialised in leather. In the Joyce Gallery he was presenting his independent collection “The Hitchbag” inspired by the artist’s favourite film director Alfred Hitchcock and his characters. It was love at first sight. The world of fashion started to talk about this gifted artist at the moment when Zendaya wore his iconic nude high-slit gown with a draped leather bodice at the Venice film festival while promoting the first part of ‘Dune’ movie. Signed by Balmain, this dress was in reality conceived and made by our protagonist.
What makes Robert’s style so special is how he mixes classic leather techniques with more modern, artistic designs, so his pieces always feel fresh and innovative.

Part 1:

Robert Mercier, leather haute couture craftsmen, why machines will not replace human gestures

Part II:

Leather craftsman, Robert Mercier about his Zendaya dress & collaborations with haute couture houses

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