The best of Paris men’s Fashion week AW 23/24

The best of Paris men’s Fashion week AW 23/24

Jan.26 2023

Text: Anna Mar

 

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Milan Fashion Week is over, and now the baton is being passed to Paris. Today we take a look at the most inspiring fall-winter collections 2023-2024. Let’s go!

SAINT LAURENT

Saint Laurent opened the men’s fashion week in Paris. In the new collection there is a very strong trace of the women’s spring 2023 collection. Fashion critics scold Saint Laurent for this, but we like this “transparency” of the boundaries between men’s and women’s fashion. After all, it was Yves Saint Laurent in his time who popularized men’s suit in women’s closet. And even if the collection is a little bit “deja vu”, but it’s stylish! And as he bequeathed Yves Saint Laurent, his clothes are about the style, but not about fashion.

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

The father of avant-garde fashion, Walter Van Beirendonck, challenges the catwalk: art versus commerce.
The collection is called “We need new eyes to see the future”. In it, the designer revisits the theme of man of the future and prepares us for ecological collapse. Hence the many items such as oversize coats, vests, bomber jackets seem like airbags, that should save us in an emergency situation. Masks have long been not only a fashion attribute, but a part of our everyday life. In Beirendonk’s collection they are presented in his own crazy prints. And they complete the image with eye-catching shoes, which refer to the name of the collection itself.
Walter Van Beirendonck created not so much clothes, but art, behind which is the designer’s statement to the fashion world.

LOUIS VUITTON

Louis Vuitton is still working without a creative director, nevertheless the fall-winter collection pleased us. Lots of interesting details: a suit as if sewn from letters, a suit-painting, belted jackets with patch sleeves, chokers, aviator hats. A definite trend is motorcycle jackets. Handbags and accessories, as always, are at the top, because it’s Louis Vuitton.

The overall impression of the collection will be similar to Dillane’s graffiti in yellow on a gray topcoat: «Blurry Vision of a Bright Future». Everything seems to be fine, but there is no single common idea.

DIOR

The Dior men’s collection showcases the legacy of the House of Monsieur Christian Dior, during the Yves Saint Laurent period, and the British influence of the current artistic director Kim Jones.

Despite the fact that the Dior man looks more like a boy, or at least a student at an elite school, the silhouettes are very beautiful with interesting details and cuts. We give the highest marks to Kim for his collection. He passed the « exam » brilliantly this season.

LOEWE

Jonathan Anderson has managed to create a collection not only for his own brand but also for Loewe. Here, the designer is much more restrained in his imagination. The collection looks minimalist, but one can still feel the designer’s handwriting: semi-nude models, hyperbolised clothes, original leather trims, lush colours. The main trend element of this show is underpants, which the designer suggests noet to hide, but to wear with the coat on the naked body.

MARINE SERRE

“Nothing is created. Everything is transformed” -says Marine Serre and that idea runs through her entire collection. An installation in the form of three towers of scarves, handbags and jeans, ready to be recycled, visually complements the designer’s message to the world. And the collection itself is a demonstration of what a designer can do with these unnecessary clothes. Our favourite is a dress and trousers made from motorbike jackets. And it is impossible not to mention jewellery that made from recycled cutlery. Recycling is always a good idea!

BOTTER

Lisi Herrebrugh et Rushemy Botter are delighted with their collection season after season. Everything from the knitwear and denim, to the colour combination and fabrics, to the shape and construction is beautiful.

The devil is in the details – that’s so about Botter. Accessories and shoes are worthy of your attention.
And the bike saddle bag looks like a joke in the direction of the Dior canonical saddle bag, we love it!

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