Another fashion marathon came to its end, with, traditionally Paris ready-to-wear fall-winter 2023/2024 week closing the month.
This season designers were either trying to impress the instagrammers by the onstage performance (mainly independent houses) or showed the beautiful and durable cloths (big groups’ belongers).
There were few highly expected shows.
Starting probably by Balenciaga, the first one after its epic scandal over the commercial campaign where the house was blamed for using the images of kids, let it say, improperly.
Just as Demna put it in the press-note for his new show: «Fashion has become a kind of entertainment, but often that part overshadows the essence of it, which lays in shapes and volumes, silhouettes, the way we create relationships between body and fabric, the way we make the shoulder lines and armholes, the way cloths have ability to change us».
That was what Gvasalia did in his last collection: went back to basics of this more than one century-old legacy house. Back to its legendary cutting, impeccable, to the garments which get over the immediate media effect.
Ludovic, in his turn, pushed the boundaries of minimalism of the Belgium brand which he is taking over. Twisted by his own aesthetics of cause and supported by the blessing of the house-founder, member of the Antwerp Sex herself. The strongest moments of the show, dark and mysterious, were its first and last looks: bra-band in shape of an exquisite feather covering the chest, made of leather by the skilful hands of the craftsman of arts Robert Mercier.
There were quite a few of fashion moments this week as well:
Burning man at Heliot Emil show. No comment. But hot if not to say ‘burning’ trends inside the show as well (strip of leather serving as bra and a verity of bombers for instance)
Dior for décor. Playfully colourful fabric sculpture installation commissioned from the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, eye and mind capturing. As per cloths, the backstage and runway photographers stay quiet cynic: probably the LVMH bosses should reconsider some refreshment at the level of creative direction. Or not)
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