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Paris Fashion Week fall-winter 2023/2024: clothes or circuses?
Paris Fashion Week fall-winter 2023/2024: clothes or circuses?
March 10 2023
Text: Tatiana Stolyarova
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Another fashion marathon came to its end, with, traditionally Paris ready-to-wear fall-winter 2023/2024 week closing the month.
This season designers were either trying to impress the instagrammers by the onstage performance (mainly independent houses) or showed the beautiful and durable cloths (big groups’ belongers).
There were few highly expected shows.
Starting probably by Balenciaga, the first one after its epic scandal over the commercial campaign where the house was blamed for using the images of kids, let it say, improperly.
Just as Demna put it in the press-note for his new show: «Fashion has become a kind of entertainment, but often that part overshadows the essence of it, which lays in shapes and volumes, silhouettes, the way we create relationships between body and fabric, the way we make the shoulder lines and armholes, the way cloths have ability to change us».
That was what Gvasalia did in his last collection: went back to basics of this more than one century-old legacy house. Back to its legendary cutting, impeccable, to the garments which get over the immediate media effect.
Other very anticipated shows were the first one of the English Harris Reed as a new creative director of Nina Ricci and Ludovic de Saint Sernin respectively at Ann Demeulemeester. Two opposites in fact. Therefor Reed, the Queen of the Hight Fashion looks in his namesake brand, could not help to propose haute couture pieces within ready-to-wear lineup. Impressive by its colours and large volumes which are the young designer’s signature.
Ludovic, in his turn, pushed the boundaries of minimalism of the Belgium brand which he is taking over. Twisted by his own aesthetics of cause and supported by the blessing of the house-founder, member of the Antwerp Sex herself. The strongest moments of the show, dark and mysterious, were its first and last looks: bra-band in shape of an exquisite feather covering the chest, made of leather by the skilful hands of the craftsman of arts Robert Mercier.
There were quite a few of fashion moments this week as well:
Burning man at Heliot Emil show. No comment. But hot if not to say ‘burning’ trends inside the show as well (strip of leather serving as bra and a verity of bombers for instance)
Dior for décor. Playfully colourful fabric sculpture installation commissioned from the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, eye and mind capturing. As per cloths, the backstage and runway photographers stay quiet cynic: probably the LVMH bosses should reconsider some refreshment at the level of creative direction. Or not)
There is almost no surprise that the hi-tec miracles come from the Japanese, be it in robotics or.. robotised fashion show. To impress the audience and make a buzz in the social networks (both objectives successfully met) Anrealage integrated fabric with light-dependent colour-changing photochromic. Technical supremacy in action.
At Coperni the Parisian duo of designers (Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillan) were somehow at the origin of this new ‘interactive entertainment’ trend once they created the fashion viral moment by spraying the dress on Bella Hadid on the runway few moths ago. This time, the robot dog, symbolically represented the Wolf undressed a model, acting as a Lamb from the famous Jean de la Fontaine fable.
Worthy to mention the very touching moment at the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood show, which was closed by the granddaughter of the late Vivienne, Cora Corré in a bridal look.
The eco-activist Stella McCartney made her new collection memorable by bringing into it the… live horses. They entered the Manège de l’Ecole Militaire and galloped through the 18th century riding rind. All at the same time (and place) while the models walked. “There is much leather and feather and fur on the runway, especially in winter, and I just wanted to show that you can do it in a different way. You don’t have to kill anything.” Stella said after the show.
McCartney is obviously right: as per upcoming fall-winter trends, leather is everywhere: dark, looking smart and cosy. It would be challenging to stay fashionable and go without. Luckily we have some eco-leather alternatives for those of us who, just like Stella adhere to animal-free concept.
Can we survive without perfectly structured [preferably black] jackets and coats next season? The answer is visibly ‘no’! ‘Officecore’ is flooded the runways.
Still predominant maxi shoulders in suit jackets and coats appeared in many collections. Reflecting the sobriety of the moment but also gender fluidity as this piece of garment can be easily borrowed from your boyfriend closet
Designers still keep focus on our breasts: totally sheer, cone-shapes à la Madonna by Jean-Paul Gaultier, shell-shaped or the simple leather band. The choice is yours.
Just as extremely sensual thigh-high boots. You can opt for flat ones for more powerful and comfy look or wear a high-heel second-skin version for a ‘femme fatale’ killing effect.Designers still keep focus on our breasts: totally sheer, cone-shapes à la Madonna by Jean-Paul Gaultier, shell-shaped or the simple leather band. The choice is yours.
The waistline is slowly but steadily getting back to where it used to be in the of 90s, i.e. lower. But remember: wearing high-waisted pants (short and skirts) is timeless, so, no panic for those of us who, just like the author of this note, is not much eager to show off her belly button)
In case if you are fed up of bottom, follow the Miuccia Prada and some other designers’ tip, (chic) underpants would be enough.
Bombers, if your haven’t got one yet, would be the must purchase for the winter 2024.
Together with a pair of opera gloves. As, rehashing the legendary Mademoiselle Chanel quote: the darker the time becomes, the better we should dress!)
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